Project Plans | SawStop

Build Your Own Cornhole Boards

Bob Hunter — Tue, 11 Jun 2024 14:38:10 +0000

What’s a picnic or an outdoor gathering of family or friends without playing a few games of cornhole (also called “bags”). This simple game can be enjoyed by anyone able to grip a corn- or bean-filled bag and toss it to the board at the opposite end.

The basic rules of cornhole:

The boards should be 2’x4’ in size with a 6”-diameter hole.
Official bags are 6”x6” in size and weigh 1 lb each.
Boards are placed 27’ apart per the official rules, but can be moved closer as needed.
One player of each team plays from opposing ends. When tossing, players alternate turns.
Players throw the bags from behind the front edge of the board.
Bags that go through the hole score 3 points each. Bags that land on the top surface without touching the ground score 1 point each. A game is played to 21.

While you can certainly buy premade cornhole boards, we’ll show you an easy way to make your own cornhole boards for a fraction of the price. The materials we chose result in boards that are sturdy enough for play, yet light enough to easily carry. Plus, you can customize the cornhole boards to your liking with a paint scheme or decals that you purchase. Have fun with it! Now, let’s get started.

Materials:

(1) half-sheet (4’x4’) of ¼” hardboard
(6) 1”x4”x8’ pine boards
(1) 1”x6”x8’ pine board
(1) 1-lb box #9 x 2” coated deck screws
(2) pair draw catches
(1) 5-1/2” utility handle
(4) ¼”x2-1/2” carriage bolts
(4) ¼” flat washers
(4) ¼” nylon lock nuts
(1) tube construction adhesive

Step by step:

Start by cutting four frame sides 48” long, eight frame rails 22-1/2” long, four middle stretchers 15-1/2” long, and two bottom stretchers 16-1/2” long. Rip all these parts to 2-1/2” wide.

2. Build the frames by screwing the frame sides to the end rails.

3. Screw the middle stretchers to the middle rails, then screw this assembly to each frame.

4. Measure the distance between the end rail and the lower middle rail, cut the bottom stretchers to fit, and screw in place.

NOTE: The middle rails and stretchers not only add strength to the frame, but they also prevent the bags from bouncing excessively on the top during game play.

5. Cut four leg blanks 12” long and 2-1/2” wide. Laminate the blanks with double-faced tape into two pairs. Lay out a location at one end 1-1/4” from the end and edges. Draw a radius with a compass on that end, then cut and sand the radius to shape. Drill a ¼” hole at the layout mark. Cut each blank to 11-3/4” long with a 10° miter. Separate the taped-together legs.

6. Cut two 4” x 21” leg stretchers to size. Lay out the location for the leg stretchers on each leg, then screw them together into two leg assemblies.

7. Cut the hardboard into two 2’x4’ pieces. Lay out the centerpoint of each hole in both pieces 9” from the top edge and centered side to side.

8. To cut the cleanest holes, use a router with a spiral bit mounted on a trammel. (If you don’t have a storebought trammel, you can easily make one from a length of plywood or hardboard.) Begin by drilling a hole at the centerpoint equal in size to the pivot pin in your trammel. Set the bit to cut inside the line. Support the panel, including the circle, underneath with sacrificial boards or rigid foam board. Plunge and rout the circle in one pass. Repeat for the other panel.

NOTE: You can also cut these holes with a jigsaw, but it will require more sanding and cleanup work.

9. Secure a panel to each frame using construction adhesive (to avoid having any exposed fasteners on the top surface). Clamp the panel to the frame securely and allow to dry.

10. Drill a ¼” hole in the top end of both frame sides 2” from the end and centered across the width to accept the leg bolts. Install a leg assembly to each game board with a carriage bolt, flat washer, and lock nut. Don’t overtighten—the leg should pivot stiffly.

NOTE: The acute angle (less than 90°) of the feet should be at the end of the board, farthest from the hole.

11. Sand any rough or sharp edges or corners.

12. Clamp the game boards together with the playing surface outward. Install two draw catches on each end.

13. Install the handle to one of the sides, centered along the length.

Now you’re ready to play! The hardboard presents a smooth surface that works well as is, but you can also paint or decorate the boards to your liking. When finished playing, store the bags inside the game boards, lock them together, and carry in one piece to the garage until next time.

So, build your own set of custom cornhole boards and enjoy game after game of fun with friends and family. Post photos of your boards on social media and be sure to include #sawstop so we can see your designs. Enjoy!

The post Build Your Own Cornhole Boards appeared first on Sawstop.

How to Build a Crosscut Sled for a Table Saw

Bob Hunter — Thu, 23 May 2024 20:54:05 +0000

Step-By-Step Crosscut Sled Plans

One of the most helpful shop projects you can make is a DIY crosscut sled for your table saw. This sled allows you to crosscut wider workpieces than you typically can with a miter gauge. Plus, the hold-downs provide the ability to clamp workpieces in place, keeping your hands away from the blade. The clear acrylic shield serves as a blade guard to further keep your hands safe.

NOTE: This sled is made to fit a SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw (PCS) with a 27”-deep top (front to back). Adapt dimensions to fit your saw as needed.

Materials List:

Half-sheet (4’x4’) of ¾” Baltic-birch plywood, MDF, or MDO (we used MDO)
2 @ 24” aluminum T-track (#4 x 1/2” screws might not be included)
1 @ 36” aluminum T-track (#4 x 1” screws)
2 @ 5-1/2” hold-downs with T-bolts and star knobs (or anything similar)
1 @ 1-1/2” T-bolt with star knob
12 @ #8 x 2-1/2” wood screws
12 @ #8 x 3/4″ round-head or pan-head screws

Step by step:

Cut the base to size (36” x 27”).

2. Rip four pieces to 4-1/2” wide for the fences; crosscut them to 36”. Rip two pieces 5-1/4” wide; crosscut to 12”. Laminate the long pieces in two sets of two, and laminate the short pieces. Allow the glue to dry.

3. Cut two hard maple runners to size (11/32” x 3/4” x 29”) until they fit in the miter slots without side-to-side wiggle yet still slide smoothly. White oak can also be used, but avoid softer woods that can easily deform.

4. Lay out the locations on the base for the blade (centered) and miter slots; with the base centered on the blade, lock the rip fence in place at the right end of the base.

5. Place four dimes in each miter slot, spaced equally along the length. Apply double-faced masking tape (or instant glue) to the top of the runners and place the runners on the dimes in the slots, flush with the far edge of the table (overhang near you). With the base resting against the rip fence, lower it onto the runners and press down firmly for good adhesion. Lift the base and turn upside down, then trim away any excess tape. Replace in the miter slots and check for smoothness of glide back and forth.

6. Secure each runner to the base with four #6 x 3/4” flathead screws countersunk into the runners. Trim the runners with a shoulder plane or rabbeting block plane, if needed, to improve the glide.

7. With the blade fully lowered, position the base on the tabletop aligned with the front and back edges. Hold the base securely to the tabletop, adding weight if needed; turn the saw on and raise the blade up through the base until about 1” shows. Slide the base forward until about 6” remains uncut. DO NOT CUT FULLY THROUGH EITHER THE FRONT OR BACK EDGES. Turn the saw off and lower the blade.

8. Trim the laminated fence blanks flush, if needed.

9. Lay out locations on the base’s top face for the T-track grooves. In this case, the inner edge of each slot is 7” from the blade kerf.

10. Install a 3/4” stacked-dado set in the saw and set the height to cut a channel that allows the T-track to fit perfectly flush. Make test cuts in scrap stock until you get the setup perfect. Then cut the grooves in the base.

11. Cut a similar groove in the rear fence (the one near you as you operate the saw) 1” from the bottom edge for the stop block T-track. Glue the laminated short fence blank to the back of the rear fence, centered along its length and flush along the top edge.

12. Lay out the center “arch” on each fence blank and bandsaw or jigsaw to shape. (Shaping in this way removes unnecessary material to lighten the overall weight of the sled.) Smooth the cuts at the spindle sander, with a handheld sander, or hand tools. When satisfied, rout a 1/4″ round-over along the top edges and ends, but not the bottom edges.

13. Cut the T-track into two pieces 17-1/4” long. (NOTE: If you cut these aluminum pieces on your SawStop table saw, first bypass the safety system.) Install these in the fence groove, flush at the ends. (This leaves a necessary gap on each side of the blade to avoid accidental brake activations.)

14. Mount the front fence to the base by installing one screw at one end. Align the fence square to the saw kerf, and add another screw on the opposite end. Don’t add any more screws for now.

15. Repeat for the rear fence, attach one corner with a screw, align to the saw kerf/blade, and secure with another screw.

16. Make a test cut and check for accuracy. If not perfectly 90°, remove the second screw for that fence and recalibrate.

17. Once both fences are perfectly square to the kerf/blade, add four more screws to each fence (no glue).

18. Cut and install the T-tracks in each slot in the base, making sure to start the track 1-1/4” back from the front fence’s inner face. This void allows you to remove and insert the hold-down T-bolt on each track.

19. Cut a 2”x3” hardwood block for a stop block, drill a hole for the T-bolt centered on the T-track. The stop block must rest squarely on the base when tightened in the track to be perpendicular.

20. If you want, cut a 1”x4” oval at one end to provide a handle and a way to hang the sled on a wall hook. Round over the top and bottom edges of this oval.

21. Sand any rough spots to ensure smooth sliding and comfortable grip.

22. Create the blade guard by cutting a piece of ¼”-thick acrylic 4” wide and 27” long. Cut two side rails from ¾”-thick wood or plywood 2-1/2” wide and 24” long. Lay out holes on the acrylic for the screws to mount it to the sled and the side rails; drill pilot holes for each. Remove the plastic covering from the acrylic and sand away the rough or sharp edges and corners. Screw the guard assembly to the sled, centered side-to-side on the blade kerf and squared to the fence. Then screw the side rails to the acrylic.

23. Apply paste wax or paraffin wax to the runners occasionally to ensure a smooth, easy glide in the miter slots.

The post How to Build a Crosscut Sled for a Table Saw appeared first on Sawstop.

FREE Art Deco-Inspired Desk Plans

ipdesign — Thu, 10 Aug 2023 17:13:37 +0000

Amount	Material
4	2×8 @ 10’ Long
2	2×6 @ 8’ Long
2	4×8 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
1	4×4 Sheet of 1/2” Plywood
1	2×4 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood

This Desk was built using a SawStop 3HP PCS. While this is a simple build, there are a few advanced techniques that will transform the look of this project. To get the curved end on the desk you will need to make a series of kerf cuts on the table saw. This is a really easy and effective way to add curved shapes to your projects!

The Rolling File Cabinet in this build is optional. If you want to omit it, you do not need the 1/2” or 1/4” plywood.

The joinery methods on this build are up also up to you! You can use pocket holes, dowels, dominos, biscuits, dovetails, mortise and tenon, etc. Options where applicable will be listed at each step.

Let’s begin!

MATERIAL	DESCRIPTION	QTY	DIMENSION	PART
3/4” Plywood	CURVED LEG	2	65” x 28-1/2”	A
3/4” Plywood	CURVE SUPPORT	2	23” x 11-1/2”	B
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE BACK *	1	27” x 16-1/4”	C
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE SIDES	2	27” x 6-1/4”	D
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE FRONT *	1	28-1/2” x 24-5/8”	E
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE DOOR **	1	15-1/4” x 20-1/4”	F
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE TOP & BOTTOM	2	16-1/4” x 5-1/2”	G
3/4” Plywood	HIDDEN STORAGE MIDDLE SHELVES *	2	15-1/2” 5-1/4”	H
3/4” Plywood	FILE CABINET TOP & BOTTOM	2	19” x 18-3/4”	I
3/4” Plywood	FILE CABINET SIDES	2	22-3/4” x 18-3/4”	J
3/4” Plywood	FILE CABINET LARGE DRAWER FACE *	1	17-1/4” x 11-1/2”	K
3/4” Plywood	FILE CABINET SMALL DRAWER FACE *	2	17-1/4″ x 5-1/2”	L
1/2” Plywood	FILE CABINET BACK *	1	23-1/2” x 18-1/4”	M
1/2” Plywood	FILE CABINET LRG DRAWER SIDES	2	17” x 10”	N
1/2” Plywood	FILE CABINET LRG DRAWER FRONT & BACK	2	15-1/2″ x 10”	O
1/2” Plywood	FILE CABINET SML DRAWER SIDES	4	17” x 4”	P
1/2” Plywood	FILE CABINET SML DRAWER FRONT & BACK	4	15-1/2″ x 4”	Q
1/4” Plywood	DRAWER BOTTOMS *	3	16” x 16-1/2”	R

* Do not cut until main structure is assembled. Actual dimensions will vary slightly on these parts due to varying plywood thickness.

** Hidden Storage Door will be cut from the Hidden Storage Front.

10 Steps Supplies Downloads

Interactive View Editorial View

Step 1: Glue up Desk Top & Side

Using the 2×8 material, cut the parts to length slightly oversize, then glue them up to create 29” wide panels. Once glued up, trim them to final dimension.

Step 2: Cut Curve on Desk Top

Cut a curve on one end of the Desk Top with a radius of 14-1/2”.

Marking 14-1/2” from both the edge and end of the desktop you will find the pivot point to cut an arc.

You can cut this arc with a circle cutting jig on a router or jigsaw.

Step 3: Make Curved Leg

A) Cut the Curve Supports (Part B) to size and cut an 11-1/2” radius curve on the end using a circle cutting jig with a router or jigsaw.

B) Next, trim off an 1-5/16” from the straight edge so the semicircle is 10-3/16” from the edge.

C) In order for the plywood to bend, a series of cuts need to be made on both Curved Legs (Part A). If using an 1/8” table saw blade there should be 20 cuts spaced about 2-3/16” away from each other and the last one should be just over 42” from the end.

*You may need to experiment on scrap to get the correct depth of cut that will yield a 180º sweep angle required for the base.

D) Bend the Curved Legs around the Curve Supports and glue them in position.

*You may use screws or brads to hold the plywood to shape since it will be covered in a later step.

E) The Curved Legs were cut oversize before. When trimming the ends, leave around 20-3/32” of the straight part.

*You can also trim this a bit shorter and glue on hardwood edge banding to make it more durable.

Step 4: Build Hidden Storage

A) Mill the Hidden Storage Sides (Part D) and cut 3/8” deep x 3/4” wide dados 2-1/2” from the top and bottom of both parts.

B) Cut 3/4” Wide x 3/8” deep rabbets on one edge to fit the back panel

C) While the Sides are still easily accessible, drill 1/4” holes for adjustable shelf pins. Space the holes 1-1/2” away from the edges (including rabbet), 4” away from dados and 1” apart from each other.

D) Cut a 7” x 3” opening in the Hidden Storage Top (Part G).

*This is going to create access to attach the base to the Desk Top. You can leave it open like this or create a panel that attaches with magnets for more hidden storage!

E) Glue and Screw the Hidden Storage Back (Part C) and the Hidden Storage Top & Bottom (Part G) into the dados and rabbets cut on the Hidden Storage Sides (Part D).

*The back and sides of this will all be hidden, so no need to cover up any screw holes or use any other hidden joinery method.

F) Now, cut the Middle Shelves (Part H) to size based on actual cabinet opening.

*These shelves are narrower to make room for the “Push to Open” mechanism.

Step 5: Attach Hidden Storage to Curved Leg

A) Using screws, attach the Hidden Storage Cabinet to the Curved Leg through the Curved Supports (Part B).

*Again, this will be covered up, so no need to get fancy here, just countersink the holes so the screws will be flush with the Curved Supports.

B) Using the actual assembly as a guide, cut the Hidden Storage Front (Part E) to size.

C) Using the actual dimensions of your Hidden Cabinet, cut the Hidden Storage Door (Part F).

*The Hidden Storage Front, should completely overlay the Hidden Storage Top & Bottom (Part G)

*You can cut this opening by doing a plunge cut on the table saw

D) Attach the Hidden Storage Front to the Curved Leg Assembly. This will be visible since it is the outer face. You can attach it using, brads nails, plugged up screws or hidden joinery like dowels or dominos.

E) Install the Hidden Storage Door (Part F) using concealed hinges and an optional push to open mechanism.

*You can also opt to leave the door off and just have open shelves.

Step 6: Decorative Slats

Mill the Decorative Slats to 1-1/2 x 1-1/4” and attach them to the curved leg with a 1” spacing.

As seen in the picture to the right, the slats should be placed with the 1-1/2” face against the Curved Leg.

To get the slats to sit flush against the curve, you may need to flatten some of the areas on the Curved Leg or create a curve on the inside face of the slats.

Step 7: Cable Management

A) Cut an opening in the Desk Top to the dimensions listed.

You can cut this out with a circular saw, jigsaw, handsaw or router.

B) Add 3/4” x 1” blocks to either end of the opening creating a lip inside of that opening.

The cable management cover will rest on this lip.

C) Use a scrap piece of material to make the cable management cover.

Mill this to be slightly smaller than the opening with a 10” x 1/4” notch so cables can pass through.

Also use a forstner bit to make a finger pull for easy access on the opposite side.

Step 8: Assemble All Parts

A) Attach Desk Side to Desk Top.

*This is where you can get creative…

There are many ways to attach these parts, dowels or dominos are a great easy option.

It may also be fun to do more advanced joinery techniques like a miter, box joints or dovetails. If you choose do these techniques, please add some length to your parts to accommodate that joinery.

B) Attach Curved Leg to Desk Top.

*There are multiple ways to do this…

Z-clips, figure 8 fasteners, shop made buttons, screw in an oversized hole on an attached stretcher.

Regardless of what method you choose for the long part of the curve, you can use the access hole cut during step 4.D to reach in and drive screws through oversized holes toward the middle/end of the table.

Step 9: Build (Optional) Rolling File Cabinet

A) Attach File Cabinet Top (I) and Bottom to File Cabinet Sides (J).

*Multiple Joinery methods could be used here… Plugged up screws through the top and bottom, pocket holes from the inside, dowels, dominos, biscuits…

B) Route a 3/8” wide 1/2” deep rabbet around the entire inside back to accept the back panel.

C) Cut Back Panel (M) to size based on actual cabinet dimensions and glue it in the rabbet.

D) Build the Drawers.

Cut 1/4” x 1/4” grooves on all the Drawer Sides, Fronts and Backs (Parts N, O, P, Q) 1/4” up from the bottom.

E) Assemble the drawers.

Cut the Bottom Panels (Part R) to size based on actual drawer and groove sizes and assemble the drawers with the panel in the groove on all parts.

*You can use pocket holes on the Drawer Fronts and Backs to assemble them since the drawer face will hide the pocket holes.

F) Install the drawers into the cabinet.

The bottom large drawer should be spaced 1/2” from the bottom of the cabinet.

The smaller drawers should then be spaced 1-3/8” from the bottom drawer and each other.

G) Based on actual cabinet dimensions, cut the Drawer Faces (Parts K & L) to size and attach them to the drawers.

*You should have just over 4” of space between the top of this File Cabinet to the bottom of the desk, so you can use 2” or 3” casters.

Step 10: And it’s done!